普恩山:尼泊爾新手五天行山之旅

sunrise-on-Poon-Hill-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
  1. 普恩山:尼泊爾新手五天行山之旅
  2. 加德滿都自由行:八個必要體驗

說起尼泊爾,大家一定會先想起喜瑪拉雅山。不過對新手來說,上喜瑪拉雅山基地營都不是易事。不過沒關係,尼泊爾其實還有很多有著不錯風景的登山徑,而其中一個就是普恩山!

 

普恩山離波卡拉不遠,大概四至五天就可以走完。在山頂上可以飽覽安納普爾納山脈,是這區最好觀山景的地方。雖然我常常行山,可是連續行山也只上過富士山兩天一夜一次。所以說起一次的五天普恩山之旅我也有小小擔心,不過很高興一路上也有驚無險,而且成功的走完整個行程。以下是我五天普恩山的行程和在尼泊爾行山要注意點:

Contents

尼泊爾行山必知

Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
欺山莫欺水~

在尼泊爾行山可不是到行山徑出發就可以。它們有一個叫Trekker Information Management System的系統,在出發前要先申請。大多數旅行團都會幫你申請,在加德滿都或是波卡拉都可以申請。在申請前就要決定是否獨自登山,登哪一條行山徑。前者價錢不同,跟團會便宜一些,而每一個TIMS都只可用於一條行山徑,如果想走多條那就要分開申請。記得要帶:

我們上普恩山要填兩張表格,也有兩張卡~記得要把卡隨身帶,因為行山一路上都會經過檢查點。

 

尼泊爾登山必備品清單

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不是每一條路都好走~

一日行山和多日行山要的東西不太一樣,而且尼泊爾的山大多都在海拔二千以上,日夜溫差等都要注意。以下是上普恩山的必備品:

  • 行山鞋:老實說,最重要的是有一對行山鞋,其他的如果有恆心也可以走得完。普恩山的路大多都是鋪好的石路,不一定要有腳高的行山鞋也可以。
  • 行山杖:另一個必備的行山工具。普恩山上下的路很多,而行山杖絕對會減輕你膝蓋的負擔。
  • 水樽或是水袋:大部份安納普爾納區也禁止膠樽,所以出發前要先準備好。我這次買了一個兩公升的水袋,可以放在包內有水管的那種,很是方便飲用。
  • 背包:如果是獨自登山那就要帶一個夠大的背包,大概60-70L左右。我會建議聘請一個搬運工去幫你背大包,然後自己再帶一個日用行山背包(夠放水和防水用品等就好)。如果是參加團那會它們大多會提供一個行李袋給你,記得要事先問好。
  • 防水外套和褲:在山上天氣說變就變,最好就是有防水衣物準備。
  • 雨傘:防水外套不十定好用,最好就是多帶雨傘。
  • 抓毛絨外套:山上的早晚溫差很多,晚上時我都要穿著它才夠暖。
  • 帽子:怕曬的朋友就要帶一頂夠防曬的帽子。
  • 太陽眼鏡:以上一樣~
  • 速乾毛巾:我帶了一條大和一條小的,一個洗澡用,另一個是汗巾。
  • 長襪:山路上會有水蛭,所以建議穿長襪。
  • 運動衣x2:如果你有搬運工那可以多帶一兩件。最好是運動專用的,因為真的會出很多汗。
  • 可改短行山褲和運動褲:五天帶兩至三條褲最好,而有拉鍊可改短的行山褲可以當兩條穿,而且更換容易。
  • 太陽油(防曬):不要小看太陽~
  • 蚊怕水:山上也有很多蚊蟲,我不知被咬了多少次。
  • 無水洗手液:在吃飯前等等都可用到。
  • 廁紙:在山上的住所等都不會提供,所以要自備。
  • 日常用品:我們住宿的地方都有浴室和熱水,所以可以帶洗滌用品。
  • 差電器和外置電池:在住宿的地方大多都只有小數的位置差電,所以最好就是帶一個外置電池。
  • 頭燈:主要是上普恩山看日出時用的,不過有時候住宿可能會停電。
  • 護膝:如果你膝蓋不好,那一定要帶,因為上下山的路很多。
  • 急救用品:帶一些必備的急救用品,像是止痛藥,止瀉,止血等。
  • 防水袋:下雨時最需要保護的是你的包包~
  • 睡袋:個人沒有帶,可是很多人也對民宿的清潔度不太有信心,而且它也是多一重保暖。

 

團行或是獨行普恩山

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自己一個人走還是找領隊?

普恩山的路不難走,如果想自行的話是絕對可行,一路上也有很多村落和民宿。不過對第一次到尼泊爾或是登山多天的人我會建議參加團。這樣你就不用擔心走錯路,而且也有人幫你找最好的民宿和與當地人溝通。很多時候我們的領隊也要事先打電話到吃午餐的地方去先下單,要不然一餐可能要等一小時以上!

 

是否需要登山搬運工

our-amazing-porter-for-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
他們都是這個旅程的英雄!

就算你不需要領隊,如果沒有背過重物登山那還是請一個搬運工好。普恩山要上上落落的路不少,我平時也有行山可以頭兩天放太多東西在日用包所以走得很辛苦。

可以要注意不要多放東西入行李包給搬運工。尼泊爾的人都很驕傲,就算太重也會再搬。

 

普恩山五天行程:

想走普恩山其實有很多不同的走法,大多數人都會以四至五天去走一個大圈。不過我們比平常的行程多走了一段路到澳大利亞營地,而大多的人都會在Ghandruk完成旅程。以下我先說一下我的普恩山旅程,之後會介紹一下其他行程:

 

第一天:波卡拉到Ulleri

flight-from-Kathmandu-to-Pokhara-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat我們在早上由首都飛到波卡拉。雖然只需半小時,可是飛機延誤了差不多一個小時,所以要有心理準備。我們是坐Yeti航空,飛內陸的都是小型飛機,只有二十行左右。位置都是在機場時派,可以試試看能不能拿到右邊位。天氣好時可以看到安納普爾納山脈:

Annapurna-range-from-Kathmandu-to-Pokhara-flight-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

波卡拉的機場是我人生看過所有機場中最小的一個,連行李帶也沒有,只有一個行李位。

大多數人在登山前都會在波卡拉留一兩天去習慣一下和買一些必需品。不過因為時間關係,我們在買水和零食後就直接上車出發到Birethanti。因為修路問題,我們在路上換到吉普車到村上。

TIMS-check-point-at-Birethanti-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在村內有第一個TIMS檢查站,記得要把你的TIMS卡隨身帶。那時候已經是下午了,所以大家到一旁的Moonlight Restaurant吃午餐。你可以在這開始行山之旅,不過因為我們都已經叫了幾架吉普車,我們就上回車源著河坐到樓梯開始段。

lunch-at-Birethanti-before-hike-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
先吃個飽!

到第一個落住地方Ulleri只是二小時行程,先是下樓梯過兩條鐵橋到河的另一邊。如果有點畏高那可能會怕,不過感覺上都很安全。

suspension-bridge-along-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

下了山之後當然是要上山~接下來都是大級大級樓梯上。途中下了一場大雨,幸好我們則則到了一個小亭可以休息。

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下雨時馬可沒得休息

在日落前我們終於到了村落,住的民宿在村中心叫Kamala Guest House,有著粉紅和湖藍色的外牆。大部份房間都是雙人房,不過也有連房浴廁,也有熱水洗澡。可是想用無線上網會另收100 rupees。

晚餐的選擇不多,在山上民宿(英文大多叫tea house)叫餐時都會盡量要求大家叫差不多的餐點,要不然會煮很久。我叫了尼泊爾著名的餃子Momos和至愛的Masala Tea,因為很累和有點冷也叫了蒜頭湯。

Kamala-Guest-House-Ulleri-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

吃晚餐後我們也先選好明天的早餐。說選擇也只是說好想要什麼樣的蛋,其他的是吐司和番薯。

 

第二天:Ulleri到Ghorepani

這一天我們在7:00就開始早餐,因為人多和要付款等等弄到8:20左右才出發。由Ulleri到Ghorepani只是五小時的路程,沒有太多上下山段,算是五天行程中較輕鬆的一天。

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午餐是在Lali Gurans Guest House吃,在到達時才叫餐,所以等了一個多小時才有飯吃。這一次我試另一個尼泊爾特色餐:Dhal Bat。它有很多種串發,中文又叫達八,有飯、豆湯、咖哩馬鈴薯、炒掛菜等。

Lali-Gurans-Guest-House-and-Restaurant-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat Dhal-Bat-Lali-Gurans-Guest-House-and-Restaurant-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在到Ghorepani村口又有另一個TIMS檢查站,之後我們再一起到在村邊的民宿Peace & Excellent View Lodge。雖然不是在村中心,不過它的位置很不錯,可以看到普恩山和村。因為今天出發得早而且行程也不長,我們在15:30已經到了。

 

Arrive-at-Ghorepani-Restaurant-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

這一次的民宿比上一次好,在房內還有可以差電的地方。大家在吃飯前都圍在餐廳的暖爐前取暖,那也是烤乾衣物的好地方。

Peace-and-Excellent-View-Lodge-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
雖然有點遠,可是還是不差

room-in-Peace-and-Excellent-View-Lodge-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

晚餐我再吃了達八,之後大家都為了明天一早要起來看日出去睡了。

注意:日出上普恩山是在下山後才吃早餐,所以怕餓的話要先準備好。

 

第三天:普恩山日出,Ghorepani到Ghandruk

為了看日出,大家在4:00就集合出發,記得要帶你的頭燈和穿好保暖衣物。由Ghorepani上普恩山只要一個小時,由村中的廣場就有路上去。

town-square-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在上山大概五分一時會遇到收費站,上山要50 rupees,不過在下山時已經沒有人。

Poon-Hill-ticket-barrier-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
下山時拍的

雖然真的只是一小時左右,可是上山的路比想像中難,不過都是鋪好的樓梯。在登頂後可以看到一個小食部,主要是賣茶水(要200-300左右)還有一個觀景台。當然少不了山牌~

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個人認為上觀景台沒有什麼特別,在地上可以拍到更好的圖。太陽會在上山後的右邊山脈升起,不過也不要錯過到正遠方的山景,那邊還有經幡。

sunrise-on-Poon-Hill-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat far-end-of-Poon-Hill-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

因為有高山擋著,太陽在5:40才由山後出現。如果你不太在意日出前的風景,那大可以再晚一點才上山。不過愈晚上山人就愈多。

日出後我們再多拍幾張照才下山吃早餐,之後在7:30出發。這一天可是整個行程最辛苦的,在上山看日出後還要再走八小時。

breakfast-at-Peace-and-Excellent-View-Guest-House-Ghorepani-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
Down for a good hearty breakfast

出村後的第一段路都是一直上山到Deurali Pass (3090m)。由遠處就可以看到在石堆上漂蕩的經幡,而且還可以清楚看到兩邊的山景。

Deurali-Passi-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat Deurali-Pass-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在這之後我們就開始穿過叢林下山,是這一天中最好走的一段路。因為走得很散也有點累,我們在到山下的第一個村就停下來喝喝茶休息,而領隊也打電話去叫好午餐。

Nam | Travel Blogger(@laughtraveleat)分享的貼文 張貼

接下來的路都是在下山,經過一個有著很多石堆的小河谷。領隊告訴我們這都是給山神的敬禮,也是算是寺廟。

Dhal-Bat-along-the-trail-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat在到吃午餐的地方天天氣也漸漸轉壞,我再次吃了達八,而這一間也是整個行程最好吃的達八之一。午餐後雨開始大起來,不過也只能硬著頭皮繼續走。下雨行山路真的要小心,因為都是用石頭鋪路,所以水也會由樓梯流下,很易滑倒。

大家在17:30-18:00左右到Ghandruk,領隊也貼心的為我們叫了茶。我們住的是Simon Guest House,是整個行程中最好的一間。由二樓的陽台就可以看到安納普爾納山脈。到了這裡終於有電話信號,而民宿也有HBO電視。晚餐我吃了炒飯,不過份量太大了所以吃不完。

 

第四天:Ghandruk到澳大利亞營地

大多樓的人都會在Ghandruk完結普恩山之旅,不過我們將會到澳大利亞營地。有趣的是澳大利亞營地是由澳地利人在七十年代在那建營地而名,不過因串法問題變成了澳大利亞營地,也算得上是一個大鳥龍。

Going-downhill-from-Ghandruk-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
先要下山

這一天也是要走八小時左右,如果可以那最好愈早出發愈好,因為早上這一段路是最難走的。先是要由Ghandruk下山過河,再在對面的山上回差不多整段高度。

雖然時間尚早,我們在Landruk的Hotel Sherpa & Restaurant吃起了午餐,也是慶祝這天最難的路段已完成。不過不要以為接下來就很易,因為還有五個小時的路!領隊說大多都是平路,不過不是真的平,而是”尼泊爾平”,也是說五十米左右的高低路。

rice-terrace-view-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在到澳大利亞營地前的村又有另一個TIMS檢查站,之後還有二十分鐘路程才到澳大利亞營地。

last-stretch-to-Australia-camp-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
上澳大利亞營地的最後一段

老實說,澳大利亞營地真的不怎樣。天氣好的話可以看到安納普爾納山脈,不過和Ghandruk比沒有更好。而且住的民宿也比之前的差。

chicken-and-chips-Australia-camp-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
因為是最後的晚餐,大家都可以叫自己喜歡的東西。我叫的是炸雞薯條,出其的好吃。

 

第五天:回到波卡拉

breakfast-australia-camp-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
超好吃

雖然民宿沒有之前的好,可是這一天的早餐可是全程至好的,有西藏麵包頂替吐司。由澳大利亞營地出發先是在山脊上走,在某幾個位置可以看到波卡拉。

hiking-along-the-ridge-Poon-Hill-Trek-Annapurna-Conservation-Area-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
景色不錯吧?

那說了最高點,那就說一下最低點吧:水蛭。

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早上下過雨再加上在林中走,我們一路上都要小心查看鞋上是否有水蛭。我和另一個女生都被水蛭”咬”到,不過也只是受驚,畢竟水蛭也不危險。

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下山時遇到的一個伯伯

最後的一個小時我們穿過大大小小的幾個村落和梯田,一路到高路上停下。接下來就是等車來接我們回到波卡拉!

 

普恩山四天行程

大多數的人都會把Ghorepani到Ghandruk分成兩天行,再在最後一天由Ghandruk走,。

 

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Get your map of what to see in Milan in 48 hours - including tips and tricks
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Download your FREE map for Taormina
Know where the best spots in Taormina is with this Google My Map
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Download your FREE map for the Lake Bohinj region
Get this comprehensive map with transport stops and routes clearly marked for your trip to Bohinj!
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Download your FREE map for your trip to the Peak!
Get this comprehensive map with transport stops and routes clearly marked for your trip to The Peak
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Download your FREE map for Prague!
Get this all-in-one map for the best viewpoints, top 5 and restaurants pick in Prague!
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Get free destination maps for your travels
Join my exclusive resource library with map itineraries, travel checklist and more. Currently most popular: Milan, Lake Bled and Hong Kong maps
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Download the free 1 day Itinerary for Hong Kong!
Make it easy to find all the spots and follow with the infographic
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Download your map for Eze and Monaco
the all-in-one day trip map with bus stops, sights and viewpoints labeled for you
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Download your 3 day map itinerary for Danang
Enjoy a 3 day trip that you don't need to plan!
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Sign up to hear first about my Ultimate blogging beginners course
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Download your FREE map for Hoi AN!
Get this all-in-one map for the Hoi An old town and best restaurants
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Download your FREE map for Hue!
See Hue in 2-3 days with this guide!
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Download your FREE map for Phong Nha!
Where the caves are, what there's to do and where to eat in Phong Nha!
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Download your map for Padua!
It include my entire day's itinerary, not just the top 5!
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Download your map for Sirmione
This might be a small town, but knowing where to go will still help your day!
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Download your map for Sirmione
This might be a small town, but knowing where to go will still help your day!
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Download your map for Verona!
My all in one guide to Veona including secret spots, restaurants and top sights!
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Download your map for Chiang Mai
Get the exact map hat I prepped for the trip with restaurants, sights and spa locations marked on!
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Download your map for Nara!
Get the itinerary for food, temples and deer spotting in Nara!
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Download your map for Macau!
Get my 48 hours itinerary for Macau
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Download your map for Macau!
From how to get there to what to eat after in Yuen Long
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Download your map for Central & Admiralty
get your half day itinerary to the heart of Hong Kong!
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Download your Shui Long Wo Hiking Map
It isn't hard - but better safe than sorry ;)
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Get all 9 spots with 1 map!
For the hiking views, you'll need to read their respective articles for transport options!
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Let's hike West High Hill!
Let's get you from the Peak to some stunning vista!
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Get a map of my favourite restaurants in Hong Kong
This map would be updated as I add more!
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Get my Angkor + Siem Reap Itinerary
Restaurants, markets and more
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Get my 7 days Tokyo Itinerary!
Including all the spots in the post and more!
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Get your FREE Nusa Penida Map
Including all the spots in the post and more!
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Get my Singapore map!
Including all the spots in the post!
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