順化攻略:細看越南最後一個皇朝首都

Ngung Hy Temple, Dong Khanh Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
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順化曾經是越南最後一個皇朝廣南阮氏於1802至1945年的首都。 雖然順化是一個充滿歷史和古蹟的城市,可是在四十年代後失去首都的名譽和越戰的影響,它還有很多建設不足的地方。我第一次到訪順化時是2016,那時很多道路建築工程,而且我們又被人力車騙,所以對它的印象真的不太好。而在2019年這次住了在市中心,有一個很多的旅舍老闆娘,而且路也修好了,感覺真的好很多!而且它也有有不少值得一看的古蹟。

Contents

順化交通

順化的市中心步行也可,由皇城到市中心大概半小時路程左右。不過有一些景點是比較遠,如果不會摩托車那最好還是參加一日或是半日遊,打車,或是包車。想找一日遊或是包車等可以上Klook上看看,另外也可讓酒店幫你找計程車包車,不過要注意價錢是否合理。現在在順化也有Grab Bike ,如果是自已一個人也可以用。

順化景點:

差不多所有值得參觀的名勝也是圍繞著廣南阮氏,而大部分的建築物也有中國和法國的風格。雖然在市外有不少皇陵和寺廟,不過以下我只會介紹最出名特別的。

順化皇城

entrance Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

順化最出名的不外於19世紀建成的皇宮。被不少人稱為北京紫禁城的翻版,我不得不承認它們的建築方式是很接近,可是也有不少不同的地方,比如說它的屋頂比較鮮豔也沒有那麼花巧。而皇宮內也有很多還沒有修復好的建築物和拱門也別具風采。

a beautiful and intricate gate Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
很有中國風的大門

它那充滿著蓮花的護城河和金魚池也不嘗是一個拍照的好地方。

Moat of Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
整個諼城河基本上都是荷花

雖然廣南阮氏是在1802年已經成為越南的皇帝,不過他在1804年經過中國皇室的認可和跟風水師規劃好後才決定在此址興建皇宮。這個皇宮原有160間建築物,不過除了十間以外都在越戰的時候受到破壞。
在沒有地圖和導遊帶領之下, 我們並沒有很清楚了解到古城的詳歷史。不過下有一些照片:

A beautifully carved stone pillar on one of the main buildings left standing, Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
它的石柱都很精緻
A beautiful courtyard facing the gate, Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
一個小院子
red doors, Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
inside the entrance Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
gate in poor condition, Hue Citadel, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

地址: Kinh thanh Hue, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam

開放時間: 每天8:00 – 18:00

入場費: 150,000盾; 組合票加上三個皇陵 360,000盾

天姥寺 Thien Mu Pagoda

stairs up to Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
樓梯上到最後終於可以見到廟

將網上被列為越南順化三個必看的景點,天姥寺位於順化古城東的一座山丘。它有七層高,曾經是越南境內最高的宗教建築物,他於1601年由第一名廣南院氏建成,原因是因為阮氏預言中看到天姥。上寺廟的樓梯和河邊只有一條窄窄的馬路隔著,所以在上去的時候要小心。

Small temple behind Thien Mu Pagonda, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
在廟後有一個小花園

廟塔後還有一個小寺廟和花園,也不需要什麼入場費用。它離市中心不近,所以最好是叫計程車去再要他等你看完。

地址: Kim Long, Hương Long, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
24小時開放

明命皇陵 Minh Mang Tomb

Minh Mang Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
設計對稱

作為廣南阮氏的第二位皇帝,明命王對於他安葬地的風水有十分高的要求。在1840年開始建築,他在短短幾個月後已經過身。他的遺體在1841年埋藏於此,而這個皇陵的建築 在1843年才完成。

pavillion in Minh Mang Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
在東南西北都有一個小亭

有濃郁的中國建築風格,它是在順化最大的皇陵也有著對稱的建築規格,感覺起來像是一個迷你皇宮。而明命皇準確的下土之地也是一個謎。

地址: QL49, Hương Thọ, tx. Hương Trà, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
開放時間:每天 8:00 – 17:00

入場費: 10,000盾, 和古城一起購買會比較便宜

同慶皇陵 DONG KHANH TOMB

Statues at Dong Khanh Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
和其他的不一樣,同慶皇陵可是更黑

年齡最輕的其中一個皇陵,它足足花了35年和四個皇帝才完成。同慶帝過身的時候只有25歲, 在位時間只有短短的三年。所以它安葬在山頂的寺廟是最先建成,和皇城一樣有著濃厚的中國風格,不過墓內其他的建築物就完全不一樣。

Ngung Hy Temple, Dong Khanh Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

據說是受到巴塞羅拉的建築風格影響而建成的,除了寺廟以外的建築也是用深色石和比較西式化。雖然這個王陵是順化三個最出名的之一最小的,可是它也是看起來最有氣勢的。

地址: 8 Đoàn Nhữ Hải, Thủy Xuân, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam

開放時間:每天 8:00 – 17:00

入場費: 10,000盾, 和古城一起購買會比較便宜

嗣德皇陵 TU DUC TOMB

Tu Duc Tomb, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

嗣德帝是同慶帝的養父,而且這個皇陵興建於1860年代,用了三年去興建。嗣德帝是廣南阮氏在位最長的皇帝, 而他在生時也有一段時間是住在他的皇陵,所以這個皇陵的感覺比較像是一個避暑宮殿。有湖也有小森林,它和明命皇陵的建築風格比較接近。我最喜歡的是他在湖邊的小庭院:

Tu Duc Tomb is similar to Minh Mang

地址: Thủy Xuân, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam
開放時間:每天 8:00 – 17:00

入場費: 10,000盾, 和古城一起購買會比較便宜

文廟TEMPLE OF LITERATURE

Temple of Literature, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

在到老姥寺的附近,我在網上見到了一張文廟的照片後把它列成必去不可的景點之一。也是位於隔了一個馬路的河旁, 文廟是一個沒有入場費和看護的地方。感覺像是一個遺棄的寺廟,我在網上找不到關於它的資訊,而它也不太受遊客歡迎。不過如果是喜歡遺棄古蹟地方的朋友就不要錯過。

the back of Temple of Literature, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

地址: Văn Thánh, Hương Long, Hương Trà, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam

法色大橋TRUONG TIEN BRIDGE

view of truong tien bridge, hue, vietnam - laugh travel eat

這一 哥德式鐵拱橋是由艾菲爾鐵塔的建築師在19世紀初設計,有著超過一百年的歷史身長402.6米長。它在晚上會有不同的燈光顏色,所以不妨在河邊欣賞一下。

東巴市場DONG BA MARKET

Dong Ba Market Hue Vietnam - laugh travel eat

在順化古城東邊靠河的一個市集,東巴市集並不是一個為遊客而設的地方。位於巴士站的另一旁,它是一個在迷宮一般的地方,只有細小的道路給人群穿插其中,而售賣的貨物 也應有盡有,由日常生活品到食物,乾濕貨和路邊攤檔也有。

inside Dong Ba Market Hue Vietnam - laugh travel eat

除了一些t-shirt之外你很難會找到一些適合遊客購買的東西,而且這個是個感覺比較不安全的地方。如果你想購買東西的話那不如去附近的Lotte Mart。

地址: Trần Hưng Đạo, Phú Hòa, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam

開放時間: 每天 6:00 – 22:00

順化美食

順化大部分的餐廳也是在法色大橋的東南面。越南中部的食物和我們在香港或是台灣找到的越南美食不太一樣,如果是第一次去可能會不清楚叫什麼好,所以以下我介紹餐廳時也會說一下吃什麼好:

Madam Thu

madam thu hue vietnam - laugh travel eat

是順化市內口碑最好的幾間餐廳之一,Madam Thu是個想吃當地菜可是不想去路邊檔的好選擇。餐廳的員工都很友善,坐下後還會給濕毛巾,也送熱情果作飯後甜品。

它離我的青年旅舍只有一分鐘的距離,所以我在這吃了兩餐。價錢方面也不差,一個Banh Xeo(圖左)只是35k,西瓜汁也是同價,而Bun Bo(圖右-也就是牛肉麵)則是50K。

地址: 45 Võ Thị Sáu, Phú Hội, Thành phố Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế 530000越南

營業時間: 8:00 – 22:00

Quan an ba Tung

Quan an ba Tung hue vietnam - laugh travel eat

由我青年旅舍老闆娘介紹的一間本地路邊檔,我差點就沒有去這一間只有越南文的小店。不過我在坐下後她們就給了我一張英文餐牌(其實就是一張紙不過還有圖)介紹四個當地美食。不過上面沒有價錢,所以我問一下之下得知麵條只要20k,也太便宜了。

Bun Thit Nuong Quan an ba Tung hue vietnam - laugh travel eat
Bun Thit Nuong

Bun Thit Nuong說實了就是炭燒豬肋骨花生醬麵—真的很好吃。我覺得份量剛剛好,不過夏天坐在外面真的好熱。

Address:  47 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Phú Hội, Thành phố Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, 越南

Opening times: 14:00 – 22:00

HANH RESTAURANT

Hanh Restaurant, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

一間還受歡迎的本地餐廳,它有著不少越色名菜而且價錢也比較公道。雖然環境乾淨有待改善,不過大部份本地餐廳也是這個樣子。我們叫了飯餅和湯麵,水準也不差。 我們兩人的餐點和飲品總共需要109,000盾。

地址: 11 Phó Đức Chính, Phú Hội, tp. Huế, Phú Hội, Vietnam

開放時間: 每天 10:00 – 21:00

NINA CAFÉ

Nina Cafe, Hue, Vietnam - laugh travel eat
在網上比較受好評的餐廳,它是我們在順化去過最好的餐廳,當然這也反映在價錢上。有像森林一樣的裝飾,這餐廳給人一種溫馨感。
Pork Skewer with rice paper, Nina Cafe, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat
它也有不少選擇在餐牌上,我們叫了一個焦糖雞煲,不過肉質比較乾。而另外的香蕉花沙律也不是說很好。 最好吃的是豬肉串燒配飯紙春捲。我們叫了這三碟餸和一大支水, 總共是205,000盾。

地址: 16/34 Nguyễn Tri Phương, Phú Nhuận, Hue City, Thừa Thiên–Huế 530000, Vietnam

開放時間: 每天8:30 – 22:30

NHA HANG PHO SAI GON

Pho Saigon, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat-2
Pho time!

在我們酒店旁的湯麵專門店,它也是一間受遊客歡迎的本地餐廳。它的性價不差,不過注意如果他問你要不要濕紙巾時 要說不要,不然他們會記上你的單上。我們每人一碗湯麵和可樂總共是114,000盾。

地址: 10 Nguyễn Văn Cừ, Vĩnh Ninh, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam

開放時間: 每天 6:00 – 23:00

本地麵店

Eating Hue Beef noodles at one of the local stalls off the street, Hue, Vietnam - Laugh Travel Eat

如果你想嘗試一些本地的順化牛肉麵,那在Nguyen Tri Phurong 街上有不少本地攤檔可以去。大部分的價錢也是三萬五盾,而雖然他們是辣的,可過作為一個不太能吃辣的人,我覺得還可以。我們就坐在行人路上吃,我還是一個不錯的早餐選擇。

順化住宿

我在順化住過兩間酒店, 而我不得不說我覺得他們的員工並不怎樣幫到手。 他們要不是介紹給我們價格過高的一日遊, 就是怎麼問也對景點和交通方法不清楚。如果你想預訂一些一日遊的話我介紹 親自去本地旅遊社TNT Travel, 他的店就在Stop and GO 餐廳旁邊。

Bon Ami Hostel

bon ami hostel hue vietnam - laugh travel eat

在市中心內一條小巷的Bon Ami Hostel既有很好的位置也夠寧靜,不過我最喜歡它的地方是它十分友善的老闆娘。原本我只是打算在順化留一天,不過因為她人真的太好了所以我特地再回去一天。房屋來說也都不錯,有dorm也有私人房。

ALBA HOTEL

雖然它並不是位於酒店區,而是在比較接近醫院的舊區,它是我在越南住過最好的酒店。由於越南的浴室大多是開放式的,而只有這一間酒店不是。唯一的美中不足就是,外面餐廳在晚上和其他住客會有些嘈吵。

如果你想住近酒店區又不介意貴一點的價錢,那Alba Spa Hotel是個不錯的選擇。

SUNNY A HOTEL

位於Nina Cafe附近,地理位置非常不錯的酒店,它十分受外國遊客歡迎。個人認為它們的房間乾淨比較差,而設施也比性價簡陋。

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