加德滿都自由行:八個必要體驗

holy-man-at-Pashupatinath-Temple-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
  1. 普恩山:尼泊爾新手五天行山之旅
  2. 加德滿都自由行:八個必要體驗

作為尼泊爾的首都,加德滿都是整個國家最大的城市,也是所有到尼泊爾遊客的必經之路。有著色彩繽紛的街道和長眼睛的寺廟,加德滿都結合了印度和西藏的風格之餘也有著自己的特色。就算不是第一次到尼泊爾和加德滿都,以下八種體驗也很值得一試。

加德滿都景點

先說一下加德滿都的景點~主打當然是寺廟。尼泊爾人大多都是印度或是佛教徒,先說說佛教的寺廟:

 

布達納特

prayer-flags-Boudhanath-Stupa-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
圓形是代表整個宇宙

全世界最大的柴特亞佛塔之一,布達納特以它那圓型建築馳名。那是柴特亞建築特色之一,以不同的層次去反映人不同的脈輪(能量中樞),而在正中就是涅槃。圓型代表著整個宇宙,而在佛塔上的那雙眼睛就是佛祖在看著我們。

entrance-to-Boudhanath-Stupa-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

對於布達納特是如何建成也有多種傳說。佛塔座落於加德滿都市中心外,在古時由西藏到尼泊爾的交易路上。寺廟大概是在四到八世紀之間建成。第一個傳說相傳有一皇帝為了祈雨叫他的兒子將他獻祭。皇子事後放生一雀鳥,在它落下的地方建成寺廟去紀念父親。另一個較主流的傳說中有四母子因受迦葉佛的遺體啟發開始準備起建布達納特,到當時的皇帝前申請用地。當代官員在見到寺廟宏偉時要求皇帝收回用地。不過皇帝以一言既出,馳馬難追原因拒絕,而這事成為了寺廟的別名。

panorama-of-Boudhanath-Stupa-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat
現在圍繞著寺廟一圈有大大小小五十多個小廟,也有很多餐廳,商店等。像是Boudha Stupa Restaurant & Cafe的陽台是看整個寺廟的好地方。在參觀時注意要順時針走~

開放時間:9:00 – 17:00

入場費:遊客400, 100 SAARC Nationals

 

斯瓦揚布納特

main-stupa-at-Swayambhunath-Temple-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat又稱猴廟的斯瓦揚布納特第一眼看起來和布達納特差不多,不過它可不是以柴特亞風格而建,而且佛塔體積也較小。建於第五世紀,它也有一個建廟傳說。相傳當時整個加德滿都峽谷是一個湖,湖中有一株蓮花。文殊菩薩預見到這個仙境而到來。他用手劈開山讓水流出以方便想前來參拜的信徒。這也和斯瓦揚布納特的名字意思:創造有關。stupa-at-Swayambhunath-Temple-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

 

斯瓦揚布納特建在一座小山上,有兩條一長一短的樓梯上山。塔佛就在長樓梯的正上方,有祈禱輪圍繞著。prayer-wheels-at-Swayambhunath-Temple-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat在塔後也有一些小石塔展示舊建築風格。想找猴子?那走大樓梯就對了。stairs-going-down-from-Swayambhunath-Temple-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

入場費:成人200

 

帕舒帕蒂纳特廟

view-of-Pashupatinath-Temple-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat終於到了印度廟了~其實帕舒帕蒂纳特廟不是一個普通寺廟,也是尼泊爾的印度教信徒重要的露天火葬場廟。在巴格馬蒂河也就是他們的聖河的岸上,因為只有用河水洗過遺體三次才完結今世再入輪迴。而且家人也會事後用河水潔淨,不過遺體的骨灰也會洗入河中。

holy-man-at-Pashupatinath-Temple-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
在廟內會找到印度教徒

現在看到的帕舒帕蒂纳特廟建於十五世紀,不過之前原址早在公元前一世紀就有寺廟。週遭也陸陸續續興建了其他寺廟,伸延到河的另一邊,以兩條橋連接著。而在河邊會看到一個個的石台,那就是火葬的地方。

temple-in-Pashupatinath-Temple-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat

在入廟買票時可能會有導遊自薦為你介紹寺廟,不需要的話只要堅決拒絕就可以。不知道為什麼這裡也有很多本地人,他們都喜歡和外國人搭傘,也會要求拍照。

開放時間:4:00 – 21:00

入場費:1000

 

街頭小食和購物團

the-streets-of-thamel-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat
一起來探索加德滿都~

感受一個城市最好的方法就是由吃和購物的入手。加德滿都畢竟都是一個食物衛生不太有保障的城市,而且街頭有點亂,也因時間有限的關係決定了找一個導遊。Backstreet Academy有一個街頭小食加購物團就正適合,有導遊更加不用怕語言不通或是被當水魚。以下先說說購物經驗:

看一下詳情

加德滿都購物團

purchases-from-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat
我的戰利品

和導遊姐姐聊天時她告訴我購物不一定是在市中心,不過我的酒店就在泰美爾區,所以就在這開始。在她的幫助下確認價錢沒有過高下買了二份披肩,一條長裙,半身裙和印度奶茶茶葉。作為參考,披肩兩件400,兩條裙4,000,茶葉900(200g)。一路上也參觀了加德滿都的大街小巷~

 

加德滿都街頭小食

說起加德滿都的街頭小食,我一開始也不知道有什麼。除了加德滿都峽谷原居民內瓦爾的食物外,也有印度和西藏小食:

Bara
bara-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat
Bara

在一條小巷中一間小屋的二樓上有一間隱世印度小食店。我們先是嘗用扁豆做的薄餅配搭上微辣的土豆和烤乾豆腐用芥子油煮成,素食者也可以吃的Bara。小食店地方很小,店主們就在離我們不遠的一角煮著Bara。另外我們也嘗了Yomari,一個看起來像是餃子不過是甜點的結婚必備食品。外層是米糕,內有甜甜的奶酪餡,聽說做工不易,不過很受大家歡迎。

Yomari-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat
Yomari

 

餃子Momos

buffalo-meat-momos-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat尼泊爾的餃子叫Momos,有著多如繁星的餡料配搭,由水牛肉到芝士都有。作為第二站的小店位於一個庭院內,面對著石塔吃餃子。和中式餃子不一樣的地方是點的醬比較水,主要材料是香菜。


咖哩角Samosa

tip-top-samosa-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat第三站的咖哩角店是有名的Tip-Top咖哩角,所以人也很多。雖然我不太喜歡咖哩角,不過加上搭配的甜醬又真的不錯。另外它也有賣一種叫Jeri的甜點,是奶酪和麵粉炸成加上同樣的甜醬,比想像中有咬感~

 

 

Dahipuri Chat

Dahipuri-Chat-backstreet-academy-tour-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat也許看名字你也不知道是什麼,其實看了實物你也不會知道它是什麼。一個有乒乓球大小的炸空心麵包像是一個小碗,內有奶酪,土豆,鷹嘴豆,炸麵條,洋蔥等。這個小食一定要一口吃掉,要不然會漏!吃下的時候好像一個味蕾炸彈,脆脆的炸麵包加上流質奶酪還有咸的配料,是個很不一樣的感受。

 

芒果拉昔Mango Lassi

mango-lassi-backstreet-academy-kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat拉昔起源於印度,簡單說起來是一種奶酪飲品。在尼泊爾同樣受歡迎,也是我們街頭小食之旅的最後一站,在一座廟的底層。你可以買大或是小杯,比在餐廳叫的濃,也加了合桃和葡萄乾,真的是百喝不厭。

訂購物加街頭小食團

 

俯看珠穆朗瑪峰

view-of-himalaya-range-yeti-everest-view-flight-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
一覽喜馬拉雅山~

其實想看珠穆朗瑪峰不一定要行山,坐飛機就可以了。由加德滿都每多都有多班航機可以帶你一睹珠穆朗瑪峰和喜馬拉雅山的風景。比起行山需時和價錢少很多,只要一個多小時就可以欣賞到珠穆朗瑪峰的英姿再回到加德滿都。最好就是在早上起飛,因為雲會比較少。

yeti-everest-view-trek-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
只要一個多小時,不用登山

不同航空公司都會行走這條航線,都是用同款的小型飛機,也只會讓乘客坐窗口位。開始時會是左邊乘客先看到山景,回程時右邊的就可以看到。在到山脈時大家也有機會到機長室一睹風彩,不過認真的告訴你真的拍不到什麼。

cockpit-view-from-Everest-View-Flight-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
機長室

在回程時還有香檳興祝。不過我也想在這提一下看不看到珠穆朗瑪峰都要看當日天氣,而且尼泊爾的航班大多都會遲,所以要有等待準備。

champagne-on-yeti-everest-view-flight-kathmandu-nepal-laugh-travel-eat
Yeeepee

快去訂機票看珠峄

加德滿都王宮廣場

Dabar-Square-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat由名字就可以知道這個廣場的重要性。由第三世紀開始就有皇宮在此落成。王宮廣場由十五世紀起建成,在廣場中的寺廟都是由那時段起建立。它在加德滿都市中心,除了信徒來參拜寺廟外也有很多人路過。

another-entrance-to-durbar-square-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat入廣場其實是要入場費,不過只要不走到收費亭前大多人都可以直入,也沒有看到有人來查票。由於我這一次只是路過,沒有深入了解廣場和四周的建築。可是不論你有多少時間也都應該去看一看。

入場費(並沒有實行):成人1000

 

夢花園

garden-of-dreams-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat誰也想不到在加德滿都市中心還有一個充滿歐式花園。以新古典風格興建,夢花園有亭台,長椅,噴泉和陽台等設施,在二十年代為一位尼泊爾元帥而建。元帥在六十年代時過世後花園曾一度被遺棄,在奧地利政府的幫助下修復並開放。現在很受當地人歡迎。

地方:Tridevi Sadak, Kathmandu 44600, Nepal

開放時間: 9:00 – 22:00

入場費:200

 

Bhojan Griha

inner-courtyard-at-Bhojan-Griha-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat

以上說了很多景點,而最後這個推介既是吃也是看表演的地方。Bhojan Griha位於一座有150年歷史的建築內,讓你彷如置身於尼泊爾的王宮一樣。餐廳的餐點都是尼泊爾傳統菜色,而且食材都是來自當地有機農場。食客都會一起坐在它們的用餐廳,而用餐時也會有傳統文族舞表演,是個一次過感受到尼泊爾文化不同面貌的好地方。

dal-bhat-at-Bhojan-Griha-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat
Good old Dal Bhat

dance-performance-Bhojan-Griha-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat

地方:Bhojan Griha, Dillibazar, Kathmandu, Nepal

 

加德滿都住宿推薦

Nepali Ghar

Nepali-Ghar-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat在加德滿都最方便的當然是住在泰美爾區。而我不得不推薦才開了幾個月的Nepali Ghar。它離泰美爾區中心只有幾分鐘路程,在一條較安靜的路上。它完美的絡合了尼泊爾傳統建築和現代建設,在中心有一室內天井讓日光照入,很是唯美。在大堂後也有茶包和冰茶讓住客飲用,而且在屋頂也有一個小陽台可以看到附近的風景。roof-top-view-from-Nepali-Ghar-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat roof-top-space-of-Nepali-Ghar-Kathmandu-Nepal-laugh-travel-eat

房間雖然不大,可是設備整全也很舒適:

Nepali-Ghar-room-side-view-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat Nepali-Ghar-room-Kathmandu-Nepal-Laugh-Travel-Eat

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