日出布羅莫伊真火山:峇里到爪哇三天之旅

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  1. 珀尼達島: 峇里島的秘密花園
  2. 峇里島水明漾攻略:36小時吃喝購物
  3. 峇里島火山登頂: Mount Batur日出之旅
  4. 峇里島自由行價錢攻略
  5. 峇里島自由行:十天終極新手行程
  6. 日出布羅莫伊真火山:峇里到爪哇三天之旅
  7. 峇里瑜伽度假:一星期在Shanti Toya Ashram

布羅莫火山和伊真火山是印尼最美又不難登上的兩大火山。伊真以它那硫黃煙霧和藍綠乳白湖水出名,在東爪哇和峇里打對岸。布羅莫則是遠一點,離峇里十二小時車程,有著如火星一般的風景。在去年上了峇里的巴杜爾火山後我們決定這一次要到爪哇登上這兩個更美的火山。

由峇里出發的話自己去不太容易,所以我們參加了IndoTravelTeam的三天布羅莫火山和伊真火山之旅。不論你是想由峇里以最少的時間去參觀這兩個火山或是打算行山後在爪哇
繼續也是一個好選擇。

伊真火山

panorama-of-ijen-crater-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat伊真火山是在爪哇最東邊的一個火山,以硫磺礦業,乳藍色酸性湖泊和藍焰出名。伊真的酸性湖泊可是全球最大,有成足足一公里直徑。伊真其實是一個火山群的一部份,不過也是其中最大的一個。它是成層火山,以一層熔岩一層火山灰組成。火山的最高點可有海拔2799米,也是一個活火山,最後一次爆發是在1999年。

布羅莫火山

布羅莫火山也是一個火山群,而有趣的是它可不是火山群中最高或是最美的。在東爪哇的中心,它的名字源於印度教的創造神梵(Brahma)。它也是成層火山,不過也是複式火山,意思是指火山口中有一個半成的新火山口。布羅莫火山有海拔2329米高,而環繞著它四周的沙海和熔岩看起來就像火星一樣。

布羅莫伊真火山三日團

Crater rim at Ijen

由峇里出發到這兩座火山可不是一件休閒之事,三天之中大多的時間都會是在車上度過。不過喜歡登山和風景的朋友都一定會覺得是值得的,由其是時間不多和不想去爪哇可是還是想去火山的朋友們。雖然說是三天,我們可是在第一天的下午5時上車而在第三天的晚上11時回到水明漾。
我們參加的是IndoTravelTeam三天團的反去版,如果想在爪哇繼續行程的話是個最好選擇。不過對休息時間來說,還是正常版先去布羅莫會比較好。
以下是三天團包括的項目:

  • 來回水明漾在集合點Gusto Gelato接送,不過也可以由烏本來回,不過時間會多加一至兩小時
  • 除了第一天和最後一天晚餐以外的所有餐點
  • 可借如外套,手套,帽子,手電筒,還有在伊真需要的防硫黃面罩
  • 第二晚的民宿
  • 上伊真和布羅莫的導遊

你可以在它們的網站找到價錢,而在2018年8月是290USD。你也可以只去伊真的24小時團,價錢是120USD。

第一天:峇里到伊真火山

gusto-gelato-seminyak-bali-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
這個雪糕店好像是很多不同團的集合點

我們參加的反向團在下午5時由水明漾出發。我們把大行李留了在酒店,只是帶了上山用的背包和一個小行李袋放換洗衣服和洗滌用品。領隊很準時的出現並帶我們到對面停車場去上小巴。小巴有大概八個座位,對六人來說也算是剛剛好,不太擠。

indotravel-minivan-seminyak-bali-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
這三天的新家

峇里島的交通大部份時間來說也不太好,不過在出了水明漾後一路上也算順暢。我們在到峇里西北港口40分鐘前在一個小型超市停下一,這可是個買小食,去洗手間或是換上登山衣服的好機會(也可以在上船後換衣服)。traffic-in-seminyak-bali-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat

我們在晚上10:30左右到Gilimanuk港口。來往峇里和爪哇的船班次很多,所以在到達後很快就上船出發了。在車上船後大家都要下車到船上,船程只有一小時所以可以把東西都留在車上。我也趁這個時間吃了在水明漾買的麵包。

爪哇的時間慢峇里一小時,所以我們可也是在10:30到爪哇。在船到岸時我們都趕緊回到車上準備直接出發。在下船後20分鐘後是在到伊真前最後一個小型超市停站,所以有什麼要買的都要在這買了(像是水和食物)。之後上山的車程有很多彎,我建議最好就是睡一睡保留精力上山。

我們在午夜到達伊真的停車場,不過當地的導遊還有一小時才到。大家再多睡一會就開始換鞋準備上山。

 

第二天:伊真火山

當地導遊們在1:00出現,而停車場內也有不少其他團準備登山。首先導遊們派了每人一個硫黃面罩,而需要借用外套,手套等也可以問他們。我建議還是自備外套和頭燈,因為他們的手電筒不太夠光。

entrance-to-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
我在下山時有光下拍的入口照

在大家都裝備好後我們就出發登山。在檢票口後的第一段路主要都是火山沙石斜路,加上高海拔所以是有點難走。大概1-2小時後會到一個小咖啡店,也是第一個主要休息點,之後的路就會比較平也好走。

start-of-the-path-at-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
這也是在下山時拍的
cafe-stop-with-local-taxi-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
可以一次過看到當地的'計程車'和那小咖啡廳

如果你覺得真的走不到,那也不是沒有選擇。一路上會看到很多當地人推著一個像是推車版輪椅,導遊告訴我他們可以推你上山,不過價錢可是要1,000,000 rupees。不過他們也幫不到你上落火口山去看藍焰。

伊真火山口

going-down-crater-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
下去火山口時可要小心
close-up-of-blue-flame-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
近看藍焰

下去伊真火山口是最難的一段,而且人多天黑所以要份外小心。雖然在火口山頂有一個標誌說不可以下山,可是所有人也會下去看藍焰。下山的路都是大石也有沙,大概要45分鐘也要小心路滑。

大多數人都在離硫黃煙有安全距離的地方停下,而我們的導遊要說再下去的話會危險。那些硫磺煙可是高溫度,有一個女孩的頭髮被燙傷成黃色。而藍焰可是硫磺在600度高溫燃燒而成。我們其中一個導遊帶著我們的手機下去幫我們拍,而大家都留在安全距離欣賞。

看不看到藍焰也很講求天氣和硫磺煙,大多時都會看到它們隱瞞在煙霧中的藍影。我們在3-4時到火山口底,在那留了一個小時後天就開始光,而大家也開始上回去。由於日出時大家都在火山口內,所以看不到。

hiking-out-of-crater-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
天開始亮了,我們也出發上去了

伊真沒有我想像中那麼冷,我穿了一件上衣,抓毛外套和防風外套也夠暖。上下火山口時你也看到當地的硫磺礦工開始工作。他們一天會來回四至五次,一次會搬85公斤的硫黃。

sulfur-miners-carrying-sulfur-out-of-crater-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
這可不是容易的工作

在有光後終於可以好好的欣賞伊真火山湖的風景。在出火山口的路上我們也少不了停下來拍照。

crater-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat

到頂後返回的路也有不少美景,像是當地人叫做番茄山和一旁的雲海:

hiking-out-from-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
很美吧?

咖啡廳現在也開門了,想買點吃的或是飲料也可以。在後面也有洗手間,不過好像也是要付2000 rupees。我們在早上7時回到停車場,而只是參加伊真火山一日遊的朋友就開始折返。而再去布羅莫的人則是到對面路的一間小餐廳吃早餐。這些餐廳選擇都不多,只有炒飯炒麵。

nasi-goreng-breakfast-stop-at-kawah-ijen-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
還真的是只有飯的少飯

由伊真到布羅莫的車程大約六小時,在11:00我們停了一下去洗手間,不過也要付2000 rupees。爪哇的天氣比起峇里熱,我們也都在這換了衣服。

這午餐也不太好吃

在12:15我們到了離布羅莫最近的一城市Probolinggo,在這先吃了午餐再上山。雖然我們在下午2:00已經差不多到了,不過因為修路關係等了一個小時才到民宿。民宿比我想像中好,唯一一個問題是沒有洗手盆。不過不是每一個團都住在過,像是由峇里來的那組人就住在另一個地方。

guesthouse-at-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat-3
外觀
房間
洗手間

在休息一下後我們在下午6:00到十分鐘路程的餐廳Warung Podok Tengger吃晚餐,也是一個很普通的團餐。吃亥飯後大家也回去補眠。

 

第三天:布羅莫火山

布羅莫火山日出

要上火山看日出就要早起,所以這一天的集合時間是在3:45。導遊分我們為五人一組上吉普車,直接的到布羅莫火山腳旁的停車。我們可是唯一一團在日出時到布羅莫火山,大多數人都在King Kong Hill金剛山看日出。

morning-jeep-ride-to-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
一大早就出發

當日日出時間是在5:15,我們在4:15開始登山。布羅莫比起伊真易得多,不過也更冷。第一段路也是火山沙平路,之後就開始向上走到一條250級樓梯。

pre-dawn-colours-hiking-up-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
在日出前的清晨真的超美

登山也只是要45分鐘,在到火山口後我們往左走直到面對正東。火山口除了近樓梯那段之外都沒有圍牆,所以要小心。

mount-bromo-crater-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
可以看到大多都是沒有圍牆

在布羅莫四周的沙海在日出時有著一片薄薄的雲海,就好像是置身在火星一樣。而且在整個火山也只有我們一團人,感覺真的很不錯。panorama-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat我們團中有一名大膽男生走了火山口一圈,不過在北面後的路很窄,所以導遊也不建議這樣做。布羅莫也是一個活火山,時不時也會有硫磺煙漂出。

sunrise-on-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
日出一刻

我們在下山時開始見到其他人上山,而在樓梯下的平台位也多出了一個賣飲料和小食的小檔。在布羅莫也有代步的方法,那就是馬,可是它們也幫不到你上樓梯。

horses-at-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
感覺有點像是沙漠~

導遊說大概要100,000 rupees,不過如果人較重可能要更多。

 

tea-break-at-the-foot-of-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
休息一下

在7:00人開始多,我們也在平台飲茶或咖啡後下山。一路上要小心馬,不過它們帶著人上山時也造成一片漂亮風景。在到平的沙路前留意一下在山旁的石雕面,那可是由爪哇人留下來的藝術品。

carved-faces-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
可真的是前人留下的遺跡

回到停車場後我們上吉普車到金剛山,上山的路很斜也多彎,不過車可以停在風景區前。

driving-up-to-king-kong-view-point-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
上山去~

在日出後山上都沒有人,由這可以看到整個沙海,布羅莫和它一旁的火山。

 

king-kong-view-point-of-mount-bromo-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat

在大家看完風景後我們就上車回去昨晚的餐廳吃早餐。這一次吃的是熱香餅,在早餐後我們有半小時收拾好東西,在10:00出發回峇里。

pancake-breakfast-back-at-village-near-mount-bromo-java-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
其中一個女生會留在爪哇,在送她到火車站後就是繼續回峇里十二小時車程。在爪哇交通大多時都很暢通,除了有時候要超越慢行的大貨車。午餐是在路邊的一間餐廳吃的,那時候已經下午2:00。
ferry-from-java-to-bali-indonesia-laugh-travel-eat
Java to Bali

我們在下午4:00到港口,記得峇里是快爪哇一小時,所以在到岸時已經是6:00。最後是在晚上11:00時回到水明漾,還好我們的酒店只要步行10分鐘就到。

雖然整個旅程睡得很少,可是為了看伊真和布羅莫真的是很值得。

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