策馬特自由行健行指南

Grindjisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

策馬特是瑞士南部近意大利邊境的小鎮,最著名的原因可不是因為它如詩如畫的風景,而是因為馬特峰。不知道馬特峰嗎?它就是三角巧克力的那一座三角型的山,由策馬特市中心可以清楚的看到它。此外策馬特也是一個無車的小鎮,市上只有小型電動車或是馬車,加上那阿尔卑斯山木屋建築可是像走進童話世界一樣。策馬特最受滑雪愛好者歡迎,不過夏天的它他可是行山聖地。以下就是在策馬特兩至三天可以去的地方和最好登上的山:

策馬特交通

town of zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

由於策馬特是無車城市,因好的到方法就是坐火車入市區。如果你有車,那可以在市外泊車再坐火車進去。大多酒店都會有電動車,所以不用擔心行李等問題。在市中心時步行最多二十分鐘就可以去到所有地方,所以只要在選擇住宅地點時注意一下地區就沒有問題。

策馬特健行

在策馬特有很多不同的登山徑,由難到易都有。大多數的健行徑也有小火車或是纜車接駁,可以省下路程和時間。以下是風景最好和交通方便的兩個選擇:

五湖 5seeweg

Grindjisee five lake hike Zermatt Switzerland - laugh travel eat

所需時間:2.5小時,建議多預留半個至一個小時去拍照

在Blauherd纜車站開始,Sunnega火車站完。

在策馬特必去又算容易的行山徑,五湖如其名一樣會到五個湖:Stellisee,Grindjisee, Grunsee, Mosjessee,還有Leisee,除了湖景優美外也因為迢舍行山徑可以多角度看到馬特峰。如果不想走這麼久,也可以由Blauherd站來回第一個湖Stellisee。整體來就瑞士的行山徑都有指標,不過因為有五個湖的關係想順序走還是事先在Google Map上標好看著地圖走,因為這區的交叉路線太多了。以下是我個人行走五湖的經驗:

由策馬特到Blauherd站

sunnega station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

在策馬特市中心到上Sunnegga火車站坐上去,然後再轉纜車到Blauherd。在火車站時先買好來回票。要說明是去Blauherd再在Sunnegga回來,原價CHF43,有Swiss Travel Pass那有半價只要CHF21.5。如果是來回Blauherd那貴一點,要CHF 48左右。

going up to blauherd station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

上Sunnegga的火車全程都是在隧道內,十分鐘左右就到站。上Blauherd要轉纜車,不過不用等它是旋轉式的來回,人少時更可以一人獨佔整個包廂。

在纜車上山時可以在右邊看到五湖健行行程中最後一個湖,也是個人認為最一般的一個湖。它離Sunnegga站只有五分鐘,有著太陽椅等設施和中央有一個噴泉,看起來像個泳池一樣。

At blauherd station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

Blauherd出站後是一大片平地,只要仔細看看指標就可以確定去第一個湖Stellisee的方向。

looking back from blauherd to stellisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

過一段路是背對著馬特峰走的,大概半小時就會到湖邊。湖後方有一間小屋,肚子餓可以去,它是有餐廳的。

Stellisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

我建議圍繞著湖走一圈,因為在對岸才可拍到湖前有馬特峰的美景。而且湖也湖沒有很大。想回程就原路折返,到下一個湖Grindjisee則是要在有木長椅旁找和到到達凡路平行的另一條,如果擔心找不到對的路最好是打開Google Map看好才走。到Grindjisee的路是之型,部份也是越戰單車徑所以路很大。

Stellisee to Grindjisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

一路上我也不時會看一下Google Map查看路程,正是這樣才留意到有一條不起眼小路直通Grindjisee的南邊。之後就是一條大路:

Stellisee to Grindjisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-2

它是我在五個湖中最喜歡的一個,除了在南邊有一小片空地外都被樹包圍著,所以湖也較安靜,風也沒那麼大,可以好好的拍到馬特峰的倒影。

Grindjisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

源著湖邊走到另一邊可回到大路,先走回程一分鐘左右再依著地圖指示到下一個湖Grunsee。

Grindjisee to Grunsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

這段路要要是下坡,中途有一條很有美感的小木橋。

Grindjisee to Grunsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-2
Grindjisee to Grunsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-3

它是五個湖中最小的一個,名字取於它那綠綠的湖水。我第一眼沒有覺得它很綠,那只是因為陽光和角度的問題~

Grunsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

由第三個到第四個湖的路程最長,一路上都有指標,在見到一座小建築後右轉,先有一連串之型路下山。

在走過一個水庫後左轉再上山就是Mosjessee。顏色上來就它是最美的,不過湖的其中一邊是人造牆。

Mosjessee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

到最後一個湖都是上山的路,走得快二十分鐘也可以到。Leisee也就是我由Sunnegga到Blauherd時看到的那個湖,而由這上Sunnegga只要五分鐘。

Mosjessee to Leisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

注意:由Sunnegga出發回策馬特最後的火車在下午六時開出,想悠閒健行最好預留三到四小時。

Leisee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

葛納葛特

gornergrat station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-4

策馬特最有名的不外於葛納葛特火車。最老少咸宜上山的方法是直接坐火車上下山,在葛納葛特下火車只要再往上走十分鐘就可以看到周遭的山景也有冰川。由市中心上山的車程只要29分鐘,在站邊也有餐廳。想健行的話也有很多不同選擇,以下是幾個不同的選擇:

利菲爾湖 Riffelsee

所需時間:由葛納葛特開始1-2小時到Riffelberg站

riffelsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

最受歡迎而景色又最好的一個選擇就是利菲爾湖。由山頂步行到下一個站Riffelberg就可以途經利菲爾湖,需時一至二小時。下山的路多砰石,有意走此健行徑最好穿合適的登山鞋。下山一開始的路會看到火車軌,每半到一小時有一班火車,等一下就可以拍到有馬特峰在火車後的照片。而且整個行山徑都是對著馬特峰走,景色數得上是一流。

riffelberg to gornergrat zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-2

在偏離火車軌後差不多就看到利菲爾湖,而在再遠一點還有一個小湖,不過沒有名字。兩個湖也很漂亮,而到Riffelberg站的路不難找,在站外也有洗手間。路程大約一小時,不過想拍照可以預多一點時間。

small lake before riffelsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

如果想走更難的可以試試上山走:

由Riffelalp上葛納葛特

所需時間: 5小時到葛納葛特

riffelalp station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

雖就你可以直接由策馬特步行上葛納葛特,不過風景就好的路段是由Riffelalp開始。Riffelalp即上葛納葛特火車的第一個站,在海拔2211米高。由Riffelalp上葛納葛特會途經利菲爾湖,總共會登上924米,所以要有心理準備。

這一次上山的路不像五湖健行一樣在Google 地圖上可以找到,不過這一條山路一路上都有明確的路標,所以不用太擔心。

riffelalp hotel zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

由Riffelalp站先往Riffelalp酒店走,這時候在右邊可以看到馬特峰。唯一要注意的分差路就是在這,因為你可以也可以走冬天滑雪道上山,不過登山路會比走一些風景也好一點。登山路是在一個小教堂旁,而不是一條大路上山去。

riffelalp up to riffelsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

走過教堂後小路就開如以之型上山,山下可以看到策馬特。

登上這座小山後右邊的山谷會漸漸出現冰川,路上應該會看到路標指向利菲爾湖,只要依著標好的方向就可以。

riffelalp up to riffelsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-8

在到利菲爾湖前還有一個小湖,而在湖另一邊尖尖的小山則是Riffelhorn。這時馬特峰會在後方了,而利菲爾湖就在這座小山的後方。在利菲爾湖和這個小湖之間就是Riffelberg站,在站外有一個洗手間可以用~

之後上葛納葛特的路有一段都是在火車軌旁,而火車是大概每半小時上下山一次,想看著火車在馬特峰前上山可以在這等一等。

riffelalp up to riffelsee zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat-8

上山的最後一段路在冬天時是滑正道,所以較斜。

在山頂上有一家餐廳,雖然食物看起來不是特別好,而且很貴,不過是一個填飽肚子的機會。山頂上的火車售票處不是常常運作,如果沒人的話就要找火車售票員並在上車之前向他買票。

gornergrat station zermatt switzerland - laugh travel eat

因此,我建議您在地面車站時事先購票或是看好時間表所以不會錯過班次。

策馬特住宿

chalets at cervo Zermatt Switzerland - laugh travel eat

切爾沃(Cervo)位於近市中心的一個山頂上,有電梯可直達地面,無論您在夏季還是冬季入住都是一個完美之選。

他們享有馬特宏峰和策馬特的壯麗景色,而我完全愛上了他們的阿爾卑斯風格的房間。它們提供免費火車站接送服務,也有歡迎飲料~他們的餐廳和客房服務也無可挑剔。我通常不是在酒店吃的那種,但是真的很方便也很好吃!

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