Asia
Polonnaruwa Ancient City in 1 day: Sri Lanka’s second Kingdom
Apr
The Polonnaruwa ancient city was the capital of the Polonnaruwa Kingdom, also known as the Second Kingdom of Sri Lanka. It’s located on the northwest side of the new town with ruins of its old glories still standing strong to greet visitors and historians.
It’s about an hour from Sigiriya and a great day-trip destination to take in the stunning architecture and history.
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Table of Contents
History of Polonnaruwa ancient city
Polonnaruwa, originally established as a military post by the Sinhalese kingdom, was renamed Jananathamangalam following the Chola dynasty’s successful invasion in the 10th century.
The region was directly ruled as a Chola province until 1070 AD, when Vijayabahu I of Polonnaruwa, known as Vijayabahu the Great, successfully besieged the city after a seven-month campaign involving three armies.
Under his rule and later his grandson, King Parakramabahu the Great, Polonnaruwa flourished as a center of trade and agriculture, renowned for its advanced irrigation systems like the Parakrama Samudra.
However, after Parakramabahu, the kingdom struggled with internal conflicts and weakened leadership, eventually succumbing to an invasion by Kalinga Magha in 1214, which led to the destruction of Polonnaruwa and its significant cultural heritage.
After the decline of Polonnaruwa, the capital of Sri Lanka moved to Kandy, located in the central highlands further south of Polonnaruwa. Kandy became the last royal capital of the island as well.
How to get to Polonnaruwa
Unless you plan to stop over at Polonnaruwa on your way to another town/city, my advice is to join a day tour that includes transport to visit, but if you want to DIY, you also can:
Colombo to Polonnaruwa train
The fastest way from Colombo to Polonnaruwa is to take the train to Habarana then change to private car. In general, I recommend taking a private car or joining a tour from the city, unless you are doing self-drive or passing by.
You can also check online bookable options by 12GoAsia here
Colombo to Polonnaruwa by bus
- Bus Number: 100 or 138 (Central Bus Station)
- Duration: Approximately 6-7 hours
- Price: Around LKR 300-500
Colombo to Polonnaruwa by train
- Train Route: Colombo to Habarana
- Duration: About 5-6 hours
- Price: Approximately LKR 500-1,000
- Transfer: From Habarana, take a local bus or taxi to Polonnaruwa (about 1 hour).
By Taxi/Private Vehicle:
- Duration: 4-5 hours
- Price: Around LKR 22,500 (negotiable)
From Sigiriya to Polonnaruwa
If you are going from Sigiriya, it’s best to join a day tour to visit Polonnaruwa or hire a private car that would drive you around. For those of you that are 2 people and above, this tour on GetYourGuide offers pick up and is good value for money.
You can also check online bookable options here.
By Bus:
- Bus Number: Local buses (no specific number)
- Duration: 1.5-2 hours
- Price: Around LKR 100-200
By Taxi
- Duration: 1-1.5 hours
- Price: Approximately LKR 12,000
From Habarana to Polonnaruwa
It’s similar distances from Habarana to Polonnaruwa as it is from Sigiriya. Again, I would advise taking a day trip to remove all the hassle.
You can also check online bookable options here.
By Bus:
- Bus Number: Local buses (no specific number)
- Duration: About 1 hour
- Price: Around LKR 50-100
By Taxi
- Duration: 1-1.5 hours
- Price: Approximately LKR 12,000
Kandy to Polonnaruwa
From Kandy to Polonnaruwa is a long drive, and if you want to do a day trip, a tour is the best way to optimise time, and it also includes a trip to Sigiriya rock.
See online bookable transport options here – which are limited to private car.
By Bus:
- Bus Number: 49 or other local buses (Central Bus Station)
- Duration: 3-4 hours
- Price: Around LKR 200-400
By Train:
- Train Route: Kandy to Habarana
- Duration: About 2.5-3 hours
- Price: Approximately LKR 300-700
- Transfer: From Habarana, take a local bus or taxi to Polonnaruwa (about 1 hour).
By Taxi:
- Duration: 2.5-3 hours
- Price: Approximately LKR 23,100
Essential Information for visiting Polonnaruwa Ancient City
There are a few rules when visiting ancient religious sites that you should be aware of, and even though Polonnaruwa ancient city is mostly ruins, you would still be expected to:
- Take off your shoes – for religious sites, you have to remove your shoes to walk inside. So either wear sandals that are easily slipped off, or wear slip on shoes with thick socks to protect your feet
- Do not take photos with your back to the Buddha – in short, avoiding taking any selfies or photos where you would have your back to the Buddha. It is considered offensive
- Cover your shoulders and knees – this one is generally enforced at the same time as removing shoes. It would be easier to wear light clothes that already cover your knees and shoulders. But usually they can loan you sarongs (but they don’t look clean).
- White clothes are preferred but not mandatory for religious sites.
Polonnaruwa Museum
The Polonnaruwa Museum is the first stop on any tour to give an overview as well as historical context. It is not air conditioned but the semi-open layout and strategically placed fans do offer some relief from the heat.
There are also artefacts, sculptures, and model reconstructions of the temples and ruins that you will see in the ancient city.
We went through the room with our guide who pointed out important pieces to us. If you are travelling independently, there are English translations on everything.
Cost: 30 usd adults, 15 usd 6-12 child
Polonnaruwa Ancient city
The Polonnaruwa Ancient City is big, and our tour took us inside and drove from one point of interest to another, although there are lots of people who rent a bicycle to cycle between them.
It does get quite hot so I do recommend a car, and it’s somewhere safe for your belongings as well since there are lots of monkeys in the area.
Royal Palace of King Maha Parakramabahu
This is a majestic palace built by King Parakramabahu I (1153-1186), the first King of Polonnaruwa Kingdom. He was known as Parakramabahu the Great and made great contributions to Sri Lanka’s agriculture, irrigation, and architecture development.
The Palace was his royal residence and was seven stories tall and is said to have 1000 chambers. Nowadays, only 2 stories remain. The palace is made of brick and mortar, and you can walk to the back and see a 900 year old toilet and also what was left of the granite staircase.
Council Chamber
The council chambers are also near to the palace and while only the foundation and the pillars remain, you can make out the beautiful and intricate stone carvings on the side.
Vatadage
The Vatadage is one of the must-see in Polonnnaruwa and most recognisable by its circular shape and religious purpose.
It is believed to have been built during the reign of Parakramabahu I to hold the Relic of the tooth of the Buddha or during the reign of Nissanka Malla of Polonnaruwa to hold the alms bowl used by the Buddha.
There is a steep flight of stairs to go up to the temple complex, and you do have to take your shoes off to visit inside as well as cover your shoulders and knees.
If you look closely at the raised stone platforms you can see the intricate carving of lotus flowers and other motifs, and the same goes for the stone pillars. Although there are no rules for it, it’s customary to walk clockwise while visiting any Buddhist establishment.
There is also a Khmer style stupa nearby, as well as an indoor temple that houses a few tall sculptures.
Rankoth Vehera
Rankoth Vehera is the biggest stupa in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. It was constructed during the reign of King Nissanka Malla from 1187 to 1196.
The style is similar to those from the previous Kingdom in Anuradhapura, particularly resembling the famous Ruwanwelisaya. Although a stone inscription near the stupa refers to it as “Ruwanweli,” it has become widely known as Rankoth Vehera, which translates to “Gold Pinnacled Stupa” in Sinhalese.
The stupa is made entirely of brick, with a base circumference of 550 feet (170 m) and a current height of 108 feet (33 m), though it is believed that its original height may have been nearly 200 feet (61 m) prior to renovations.
Rankoth Vehera is also the fourth largest in Sri Lanka. It features four large Vahalkadas, which are structures designed for offerings and to support the stupa’s weight. The stupa is situated on a wide terrace enclosed by a brick wall, with entrances oriented towards the four cardinal points, allowing access to worshippers. A stone inscription indicates that King Nissanka Malla personally oversaw the construction and worshipped the stupa from a designated platform on the terrace.
It’s lovely to walk clockwise around it, and you do have to remove your shoes at the staircase by the front of the stupa. There’s also a prayer tree in one of the corner where locals light a candle.
Polonnaruwa Sivan Kovil No.2
This is a significant Hindu temple that was once on the main road of Polonnaruwa. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is part of a group of temples built during the Chola dynasty, which ruled the region in the 10th and 11th centuries. The temple showcases the architectural style characteristic of South Indian temples, featuring intricate stone carvings and sculptures that reflect the artistic heritage of that era.
The structure is particularly notable for its detailed carvings of deities and mythological scenes, demonstrating the high level of craftsmanship achieved by the artisans of the time. Polonnaruwa Sivan Kovil No. 2, along with other temples in the area, serves as a testament to the cultural exchange and influence of Hinduism in Sri Lanka, especially during periods of foreign rule.
Today, the temple remains an important site for worship and attracts both devotees and tourists interested in the rich history and architecture of the region.
Polonnaruwa Gal Viharaya
Carved out of a single block of granite, Gal Viharaya is one of the must-see at Polonnaruwa. It was constructed during the reign of King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century.
The complex features four main statues: a seated Buddha, a standing Buddha, and a reclining Buddha, each intricately carved from a single granite rock. The largest of these, the reclining Buddha, measures about 14 feet (4.2 meters) in length and depicts the Buddha in a state of serene repose, symbolizing his attainment of Nirvana. The seated and standing Buddhas are equally impressive, exhibiting detailed features and expressions that reflect the artistry of ancient Sri Lankan craftsmen.
Gal Viharaya holds significant cultural and religious importance as a site of pilgrimage for Buddhists. It shows the fusion of art and spirituality, and you do need to take your shoes off before entering the complex.
Note: the lake on the way to the temple looks beautiful during the sunset.
Lankatilaka Temple
Lankatilaka Temple is a short walk from the same car park as Gal Viharaya and a significant Buddhist temple. It was also constructed during the reign of King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century, it is noted for its impressive architectural design and historical importance. The temple is built on a high rock and features a blend of influences from both Sinhalese and South Indian architectural styles.
The temple is renowned for its large seated Buddha statue, which stands at about 14 feet (4.2 meters) tall, but has since lost its head to time.
This statue is housed within the temple’s main chamber, which is adorned with intricate stone carvings and frescoes that depict various scenes from Buddhist mythology. The structure itself is characterized by its grand entrance and beautifully crafted stone pillars, reflecting the skill of the artisans of that era.
