中文 (香港)Xiao Liuqiu is an island near the port city of Kaoshiung southwest of Taiwan. It is Taiwan’s only offshore coral island famous for its crystal clear water and vibrant marine life. In fact, every time I went underwater, I was able to spot a turtle or five.
The island is also known for its unique rock formations, and it’s easy to circumvent on a motorbike, making it very popular for domestic tourists. If you are interested in visiting Xiaoliqiu, here is a comprehensive guide!
Table of Contents
Essential Information on visiting Xiao Liuqiu
Weekends and summer are busy
Xiao Liuqiu is very popular with domestic tourists, and the island is busiest during the summer season and on weekends. While you can dodge the crowd by coming during the weekdays, a lot of restaurants, bars, and cafes won’t be open. I was there from Tuesday to Friday, and a lot of the restaurants are not open, so I just ate wherever is available.
Rent a motorbike or scooter
There is no public transport, and the only way to get around the island is to rent a motorbike or electric scooter. You can still rent the latter without a license, and if I can ride around the island fine (with a helmet), you can too.
Check the tides
If you want to see the beach, it’s best to check the tides so you don’t end up seeing just the sea or low-lying flat land. It’s also worth noting the times if you are snorkelling independently, so you know what to expect.
Ferries usually depart by 6pm
The last departure out of the island are before sunset which is usually around 6pm. This is the main reason why most people want to stay for a night to enjoy the sunset. So if you are planning a day trip, make sure you don’t miss the last ferry out.
How to get to Xiao Liuqiu
Xiao Liuqiu is southwest of Kaoshiung and off the coast of Pingtung. The main port for Xiao Liuqiu is Donggang (東港), which is about 50 minutes drive from the Kaoshiung main station and 30 minutes from the Kaoshiung Airport.
東港 Donggang
Getting to Donggang is not the same as getting to the Xiaoliuqiu ferry pier, so be sure to check properly if you are using Uber or getting directions from google map. That said, it’s about 15 minutes walk from the main bus station, but it might not be that nice to walk if you are going in the summer.
There are various ferry companies that connect Donggang with Xiaoliuqiu, as the ferry ride is only about 20 minutes. The schedule generally runs from the morning around 6-7 until 6pm, so you can check the schedule and decide on which one to go with.
My dive shop booked my tickets for me, and I went with 藍白航運 Leuco Sapphire Shipping.
You should arrive at the pier 10 minutes before the ferry departs, especially if you have luggage.
Direct Bus to Xiao Liuqiu Pier from Kaoshiung
The cheapest option is to take the direct bus from Kaoshiung to Xiao Liuqiu Pier, and there is only 2 options depending on where you are staying in the city
Dapeng Bay Liuqiu Express 9127D
The Dapeng Bay Liuqiu Express 9127D operates between Zuoying Station, which services both the high-speed rail and the MRT Red Line and Dapeng Bay Visitor Center.
The stop you need to get off is the Donggang Ferry Terminal 東琉線碼頭站.
Returning from Xiao Liuqiu, the bus schedules are timed to coincide with the ferry, so don’t get lured in by the people offering to take you as the bus is definitely more comfortable.
Cost: 52 NTD with Easycard 悠遊卡, which you can get in advance on Klook if you are flying into Kaoshiung or Taoyuan Airport
Check their up to date schedule here. It is all in Chinese, unfortunately, but the train station is the first or last stop, with the pier being the one just after/before it.
Kenting Airport Express 9117B
This is an alternative that connects Zili Station and Jianguo Station, as well as the Kaoshiung International Airport with the Donggang Ferry Terminal.
Whilst it is more convenient for those who are in the city center or coming to and from Kenting, the schedule a significantly more sparse with only 6 services running per day.
Taxi to Xiao Liuqiu
Uber fare is around 1000 NTD and takes around 45-50 minutes, depending on traffic. This would be a good idea if you are departing from the Kaoshiung town center or anywhere further south, as it doesn’t make sense to travel to Zuoying Station, which is in the north.
If there are a few of you to share, the cost would be worth it as you can time your departure with the ferry schedule.
Share Transfer to and from Donggang Ferry Terminal
You can also book private or shared transfer on Klook, which works out to the same as Uber if not cheaper, especially for shared transfer which departs hourly.
How to get around Xiaoliuqiu
There is no public transport available on Xiao Liuqiu, and there isn’t even any traffic light until recently. As someone who grew up in a city, my driving license only covers automatic car. Therefore, it is not possible for me to rent a motorbike, nor am I comfortable with riding them myself.
But on Xiao Liuqiu, you can actually rent electric bikes, which are kind of like a scooter and can be operated without a driver’s license. The cost is higher than renting a motorbike, but you don’t have to worry about refilling the tanks, only needing to go back and change the battery depending on usage.
The general cost to rent a motorbike on Xiao Liuqiu is around 200-300 NTD per night, with an electric bike/scooter costing double.
We rented my bike from a homestay not too far from the pier.
Diving in Xiao Liuqiu
Xiao Liuqiu is a very popular place to learn how to dive, and most of the courses are 3 day 2 nights. I found a diving school that includes return ferry tickets and scooter (or e-scooter) rental and stayed for 3 days 2 nights called Path Ocean, which teaches the Open Water course from SSI.
The course includes 5 oxygen tanks for 1 swimming pool/still water practice and 4 dives over the 3 days, water activity insurance, instructor, and underwater footage that are stunning!
Note: the course is conducted in Mandarin along with the theory class. But most of the study material is on the SSI app and the test is conducted on there as well, so I picked English and it was not a problem.
Cost: 13800 NTD = 3536.26 HKD = 455 USD
+2000 NTD (250 HKD) to include return ferry, 2 nights in their dormitory, and motorbike usage. They’ll also pick you up and drop you off at the pier.
Things to do in Xiao Liuqiu
You can drive around the Xiao Liuqiu island in around 3 hours, so it is not a big place but if you are keen on learning to dive or just coming to dive, I think 3 days 2 nights would be a minimum. Here are the top attractions on the island:
Vase Rock 花瓶石
Vase Rock is the most iconic rock formation of Xiao Liuqiu and is located at the northwest part of the island. It’s shaped like a traditional curved Chinese china vase and stands unobstructed on the stretch of beach but close to shore.
There is a walkway if you go down the beach, and it goes along the coast southward and is a scenic walk if you feel like it!
Guanyin Rock 觀音石
Guanyin Rock (觀音石) is a popular attraction where the road meanders between two rocks when seen from the southern end looks like the Goddess of Mercy: Guanyin gazing out to sea. It’s a popular spot for photos and with a beautiful view of the coastline, but it is a road so you should visit in the early morning to avoid cars and crowds.
And if you are visiting during the day, be sure to watch out for oncoming car and motorbikes.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/utthD5gKkGijWiPp6?g_st=ipc
Banyan Tree
The Banyan Tree is on the hills near Guanyin Rock that is accessible by a narrow lane. It is a super tall banyan tree that is pretty cool, but to be honest if it’s not for the light house, there’s not much reason to go up here to just look at it.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/oyAYQUAUAqzNoPLp9?g_st=ipc
Liuchiu Yu Lighthouse
The Liuchiu Yu Lighthouse is just called the White Lighthouse in Chinese. It faces Donggang and guides the ships that go through the Taiwan Strait and the Bashi Channel.
Although it is 11.6m tall and on a hill, it is surrounded by thick vegetation so as a visitor, all you would see is the lighthouse. It was built in 1929 with funds raised by the local fisherman association.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/29Bsmpe5x7jvbf5a8?g_st=ipc
Shanfu Ecological Walk 杉福生廊道
The Shanfu Ecological Walk is unique – in my opinion – not because of the scenic coastal walk, but the fact that you have to descend through a military bunker in order to get down to the coast level.
It’s not a very long walk, so I returned the way I came since I parked my bike there.
Black Devil Cave 烏鬼洞
The Black Devil Cave is famous for its local legends and coral formations. Previously, this was thought to be a pirate cave but was discovered to be linked to the battle between Portuguese seafarers and the Indigenous population.
I didn’t end up going as the further deep dive into the history revealed that over 200 Indigenous people were cornered and starved to death inside during the conflict. But if you are interested in history, it might be worth seeing.
Admission fee: 120 NTD
Opening time: 7:30 – 17:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Rs4F3FtMAZfWT99J6?g_st=ipc
Blue Sea Pavilion 藍海亭
The Blue Sea Pavilion is a small wooden pavilion on the side of the road on the west coast of Xiao Liuqiu. It’s not far from the sunset pavilion and offers a spectacular view of the ocean and cliff side.
If you are driving around the island it’s worth a stop, but no need to go out of your way to visit.
Open 24 hours
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Rdn9fkJGsad6yRBHA
Intertidal Zone Ecological Area 潮間帶生態區
Intertidal Zone Ecological Area comes alive during low tide, allowing visitors to observe a vibrant ecosystem filled with various marine creatures in their natural habitats.
There is a ticket barrier so I do think you have to sign up for a guided tour, but I didn’t see any information on it.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/vdZtTzyTgYUgXfDg8?g_st=ipc
Beaches on Xiao Liuqiu
Zhongao Beach 中澳沙灘
Zhongao Beach is a beautiful stretch of golden sand near the main port on the northern end of the island. It’s perfect for sunbathing or swimming and is easily accessible. It was scorching hot when I visited but there were people enjoying themselves!
Open 24 hours
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Eh8xaGTQLd3BuySo6?g_st=ipc
Secret Beach 厚石魚澳
Secret Beach was recommended to me by two of my friends as their favourite beach on Xiao Liuqiu. It’s a small patch of sand between rocks and a snorkeling place suitable for beginners.
The beach is located on the east coast of the island and can be crowded as there is a water activities center right across the street from it. The entrance is also hidden between the hedges, so you won’t be able to spot it unless you have google map to direct you.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/gU1DpaXKFJ83dxx69
Venice Beach 蛤板灣
Venice Beach is a strip of sand on the rocky coast that is also a turtle nesting beach. It’s a popular spot to go to try and see turtles, who often comes close to the edge of the sand.
It’s a good place to go for chilling but remember to pick up your rubbish when you leave!
https://maps.app.goo.gl/GDUB1DTQKu6uawmm6
Shanfu Fishing Harbor 杉福漁港
Shanfu Fishing Harbour is where I did all of my diving during my Open Water course. There is a stoney beach on the south side of the harbour and you have to walk between two huge rocks to get to it.
The area is really pretty and suitable for snorkeling as well. But there will be a lot of divers and also free divers, so be careful of your surroundings.
Sunset Spots on Xiao Liuqiu
The best thing to do on an island is to chase sunsets – because you know it’ll be spectacular! To be fair, most part of the western coast would be a great place. But I know you want somewhere that’s perfect for photos, so here are my suggestions:
脈岔夕陽實驗室 小山看海 Sio Suann See Sea
One of the popular spots to watch the sunset is Sio Suaan See Sea mostly because of its hammock on the cliffside.
There is a minimum charge of one drink order, so I got a soda that was extremely sweet. There is also coffee, beer, and some cocktails, but overall, the quality is below average. You pretty much order so that you can stay and chill there, but it’s not that expensive, and you can also walk along the coastline to see the sea with a rocky coast.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/NsZHtKP3hujXEoS59?g_st=ipc
Ocean 歐絢
For a beach vibe cafe bar where you can see the sunset, Ocean is perfect and close to the southern end of the island. A good thing to note is that while it has sandy terrace, it is actually not by the beach but on a cliffside!
They have a parking area for motorbikes on the left side facing the shop, and there is a minimum charge of 1 drink per person. I tried their beer and stayed for an hour or two for the sunset, as there are google reviews that reflect that the food isn’t that good. Although there are a few people who ordered pizza and pasta and it looked decent.
It does start to get crowded around 6:30, and they were okay with small drones being flown – although if there are other people, make sure that the drone doesn’t fly above them!
Opening times: 15:00 – 22:50
https://maps.app.goo.gl/FPxWsEqmWberEjxs8?g_st=ipc
Sunset Pavilion
For a free sunset view, head to the Sunset Pavilion which is just a short drive from Ocean. It’s sort of like a short promenade with two small pavilions where you can sit. There is usually a street vendor or two selling drinks and snacks, so bring cash if you are interested!
Open 24 hours
https://maps.app.goo.gl/bjMxE9JiSBXeF7ne8
Where to eat in Xiao Liuqiu
As mentioned, a lot of places aren’t open during weekdays so I had to find food where I can. I’d say that the food scene isn’t especially thriving in Xiao Liuqiu, although there are many photogenic small bites.
Note: many places are also only open during certain hours! So make sure you check beforehand.
Xiaoliuqiu Ajuan Breakfast Restaurant 小琉球阿娟早餐店
One of the most popular breakfast places on Xiao Liuqiu is the Ajuan Breakfast Place. It’s a takeaway-only joint that features an army of aunties making toasts and egg rolls. The signature item is their deep-fried pork chop with peanut butter toast, and it is very very good.
The only thing I’d say is that you do need to be assertive and find one of the aunties to make your order, as it took me a while to get someone to put my order down!
Opening times: 6:00 – 23:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/DnkdFVZLtAVTZNy7A
琉浪日嚐
If you prefer egg rolls, then this is a good place to go as they have a special of fried chicken and
Opening times: Thurs – Tues 6:30 – 13:30
https://maps.app.goo.gl/R2tWQi8thdsTJ7N16
梨小籠
If you are craving xiaolongbaos, this is a popular eatery that has a menu not dissimilar to Ding Tai Fung. Although their fried rice is said to be on the plain side, I had their signature xiaolongbaos and also seasonal veggies which are quite solid.
Opening times: 11:00 – 14:30; 17:00 – 19:30 (note: dine in is not available between 14:00 and 19:00 until closing)
https://maps.app.goo.gl/e6qk3KNYfNPNiadP9?g_st=ipc
Taiyaki 福祿壽囍鯛魚燒
This was by far my favourite eat on Xiao Liuqiu. This is the original location for this Taiyaki place with 8 flavours of both sweet and savoury, and a special daily flavour:
- Chocolate sea salt
- Peanut Butter
- Custard
- Creamy Taro
- Raisin
- Double Cheese
- Tuna & Sweetcorn
- Smoked Sausage
I tried their signature custard as well as the smoked sausage which comes with cheese, and both are delicious and filling. As everything is made fresh, prepare to wait for up to 10 minutes or more for your order.
Note: if you are able to, call ahead or ask someone to help you to and make the order in advance
Opening times: Mon – Fri 13:00 – 19:00; Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/3qGL11v6UQAJE7Dr9
海找冰
This is a photogenic cafe near the Secret Beach. It has a great terrace looking out to the rocky beach where you can watch the waves.
There is a minimum of one order per person, and they are famous for their beautifully decorated ice cream set. The ice cream is normal store bought quality so don’t expect too much, but it’s good for photos.
Opening times: Weds – Mon 10:00 – 18:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Keb2Dz7ygWGdLj2t7?g_st=ipc
琉好。財財龜 海景雞蛋糕
Cake pop is fairly popular in Taiwan and many shops started making them in different shapes. I drove past this place on my way to the Secret Beach and it’s quite popular, so I stopped by to have a look.
Instead of selling them per piece and by shape, the cake pops are sold by weight so I got a variety for photos. The staff were very friendly and we had a good chat, and I ended up eating everything!
You should definitely get the Vase Rock, the turtle, and the lighthouse for some photos. But in terms of texture when eating, the little balls that are supposed to represent the rocks around the island are the best.
Opening times: 10:00 – 18:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/m8edfesy28szoQ1H6?g_st=ipc
Cafes and Bubble tea on Xiao Liuqiu
There are actually quite a few chain brands available on Xiao Liuqiu and a lot of them are clustered around the main restaurant/shopping street, along with Family Mart.
麻古茶坊
This chain opens the earliest and have a range of typical milk and fruit tea, as well as plain tea options on offer. My favourite during my time there was their Peach oolong milk tea!
Opening times: 9:00 – 22:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/GZPt7pbefZ8XUcP28
50嵐
This is arguably the most well known brand and has great prices.
Opening times: 10:00 – 21:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/aJmPZfrZ3btstBcC6
Oolong Tea Project 得正#
If you like oolong tea, you can’t go wrong with Oolong Tea project. They are the only one that has air conditioned interior as well, so it might be a good choice for those who need a respite from the heat.
Note: remember to park right in front of the shop!
Opening times: 10:30 – 22:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/cEcDAcwfmGQF4QHY7
小小島咖啡 ISLET LEMONADE CAFE
If you want to find a cute cafe to sit, this place is recommended by my friend, but I didn’t have enough time to check it out!
Opening times: Mon – Fri 10:00 – 17:30; Sat – Sun 10:00 – 18:00
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RwGDmgiX6WUK3LGf9
